Selecting a simple digital camera for photojournalist33 comments
By Chris Lee Commercial Photographer
, First of all, you do not have expensive professional SLR needed to operate good photojournalism camera. If you possibly could afford it fun, but using a simpler camera succeeds it. A really camera is usually much smaller than an SLR. That is less and a small camera you always have with you! But what should you hunt for when choosing a simple dslr camera with fixed lens?
•Unless you truly know what you do: do not buy a camera that you have not had your own fingers, and as many as could possibly try. Take yourself batteries if needed and appropriate (borrowed) in memory along to quit and make. Few test images
before read test reports of your candidates on the better sites, such www.dpreview.com, world wide web.imaging-resource.com and www.chrisleephoto.com
•3 megapixel (also a 2nd handsje so) is enough, especially for web photos and magazine photos as high as a half-page A4. Do not really dwell on megapixels, remember that more megapixels means more storage (space in your hard drive, the stack store CDs). Even professional photojournalists usually have cameras with a maximum of 6 megapixels.
•Must be a new 'real', good viewfinder have you run through it. That may be an optical viewfinder are (actually a hole in the camera with some lenses, you run through it). Such a seeker must indicate the amount of good comes exactly like the actual pictures and all large enough to show to watch, such as the facial expressions of men and women on details.
It can also be an electric viewfinder, with a screen in the camera. Thus you see what exactly the camera sees, as with the SLR camera. Pay particular attention to whether the viewfinder is "too slow" (the viewfinder raves after in case you move the camera), and also offers a clear picture (possibly black or white) in dark conditions.
A small screen on the back of the camera is insufficient. You need to hold the camera a whole lot from you (very conspicuous and awkward with people around you). And tracking of issues and steadying the camera is a lot harder than with a true viewfinder.
•The lens. Note the actual zoom range. At the focal lengths when they appear on the lens you have nothing. Usually The range should be specified compared to miniature (35mm) upgraded lenses.
28mm or less is a good angle, but fairly rare. Many cameras start with 35mm that is certainly just a little wide. At the telephoto side: 90mm is just a little remote, but you can already make good portraits in a little distance, has a good 200mm telephoto lens. Basically, more coverage is obviously better, but also more costly. And zoom lenses with many more bias (especially in vast angle mode) and earlier suffer from dark corners.
Choose more wide-range in case you regularly 'top and middle' to be able to crawl your photos the activity. Choose more telephoto reach some distance if you wish to take pictures inconspicuously or use a good eye for striking depth.
Zooming itself: many cameras use a push or tilt switch to be able to zoom in and out. Ensure that good works: fast enough, but additionally easy to set intermediate. It's quite simply a mechanical swing or sliding ring within the lens without motor, as along with zoom lenses for SLR video cameras.
•Some cameras also have a new "digital zoom", but that just isn't important. With digital zoom the camera does nothing else compared to middle part of his individual photographs magnify. You will receive an enlarged view, but the number of pixels that vergote part remains just the same. Sometimes cameras trying to invent the resolution to boost, some pixels in again, but really help doesn't. On the computer you will get much more accurate and easier section of the photo to magnify. Digital zoom is basically only useful if you still would like to print. Extreme telephoto without computer Before you can connect a (suitable) printer straight to the camera.
•The camera need to focus quickly. That particular fact your reaction, see the section below within the shutter.
Once you get the actual 'shutter' (Print button) is forced, the camera always metering (matter involving milliseconds) and focus (which uses a relatively long time, especially inside a darker environment). The camera would need to know clearly (preferably silently with sending a sign to the viewfinder, otherwise using a beep) dat'ie has finished metering, and focus.
Also note any "illuminator" for focusing in the dark. A (IR) assist light in the camera can be quite a great solution, but only when it is barely visible. Highly visible auxiliary lights or maybe light pulses of the strobe are very annoying. They focus everyone's attention on the photographer or even the subject being photographed.
Very pleasant it is when you might focus manually and can set precise lens in a certain distance and then keep. Example: you are walking along inside a demonstration and suddenly happening all about you. With a camera that always would need to focus, again leg you usually do not at. Is useful then if you're able to put the camera on vast and 2 meters away, without focusing can continue shooting within quick succession.
•The shutter should go down quickly. 's release of most cameras may be used in 2 ways: 1. You press it straight right. You do this only in case you really were not prepared yet for taking a picture. Asap The camera must at first light to focus and after that take the picture, simply can't quickly. Do not be surprised if it did create a second and "the right time" is gone. The sooner, the better.
a couple of. You can also press the actual shutter button half. The camera measures the light and then focuses (and usually reports way too, are ready), but wait unless you take the picture of the actual button fully. That is the right way: by watching your camera, media the button halfway, the digicam metering and focus, and then you wait for the right instant. Now the camera must 'for the feeling immediately take the picture after you press on the button. Any delay of 0. 1 or even 0. 2 seconds is workable, faster aTime better (see the actual test reports). Nice if anyone (gently) can hear. The exact moment of the photo (the shutter is open)
•Pleasant is if the camera a short, rapid combination of pictures can make, such as three or more images within a second. That is useful when some speakers, you sometimes have to make 20 pictures to help keep. 1 nice picture (without eye or mouth mad) on
•Flash: the anti-red-eye blinking flash need to be turned off. That slows down the photo and warns everyone to the photo: suitable for parties. Should ideally really do the flash, so you can capture in darker conditions. Inconspicuous off completely Even better is if you're able to use. Loose flash
•Program Configurations: In addition to 'automatic' plans (P, sports photo, night photograph, etc. ), preferably also Any (aperture priority), S (shutter priority) environment, and M (Manual). Now you may be thinking: "Everything is automatic so easy. " But when you have a taste, you want to complete things yourself up now. And sometimes it is necessary at all to make a good photo.
•Adjustable sensitivity (formerly motion picture speed), at least up to be able to ISO 400 (preferably higher) regarding dark conditions. Try to test the usefulness of the pre-high settings or read the actual test reports. Many cameras complete have high settings (eg ISO 1600), nevertheless the highest settings are often a lot of useful: there is too much noise in the image (reminiscent of the "coarse grain" of the highly light-sensitive analog film, but is usually much uglier). When reducing a new webfotootje falling mostly gone, but a large print can be quite ugly and blurry.
•Cameras along with many buttons seem complicated and difficult, but that often. Just a camera with just a couple buttons is difficult to set up: If all you want to alter, you have to call up a menu and scroll. A well-designed camera has a few extra buttons you could quickly change. Important settings (for case in point, the sensitivity to light) An alternate to 'many buttons' is a new camera that different custom settings may be saved. You can quickly switch between institutions 'outside with full sun' and 'inside with little (artificial) light' as an example.
•Memory cards. There are numerous standards. If you already have memory cards and a card reader for your LAPTOP OR COMPUTER, it is obviously useful if the camera can use the identical ticket. Important in reportage photography is usually the speed of the cards: as soon as possible. But usually do not buy expensive tickets unnecessarily. Each camera carries a maximum write speed, so used a 10x card as fast to be a 80x card. When the camera is often a large "buffer" has (the rapidly 'cache', where the camera photos temporarily stores), you can take pictures using a faster, even if the memory card is not fast. Read the actual testing and forums.
•Additional products tip: Forget the "digital darkroom" not really: Your PC. Speed is a lesser amount of important, just what you feel fast enough. But if anyone provide photos for websites or even magazines, then you always require a suitable computer, with good coloring rendering and sufficient contrast. And who should you'd rather regularly 'calibrate' (set colors, brightness and contrast) with this type of special mouse-like box that you placed on the cord of your screen (a screen calibrator). Only using a calibrated monitor, you can edit photos in a final product that looks normal in any way. Think also if you spend your cash: with a cheaper camera and a good calibrated monitor, you deliver better quality than with the expensive camera and a bad monitor.